Meditation Platform Command Control


I wanted to create the module where the user would interact with my upcoming project, meditation platform.


Getting Started


  • 1 Sheet of 1/8″ gray acrylic
  • Pencil
  • 1 square bamboo box (from The Container Store)
  • Sharpie
  • 1 arcade button
  • 2 potentiometers w/ Knobs
  • 1 AUX port for mounting purposes


  • Adobe Illustrator
  • Laser Printer
  • Patience


The Process

I first drew everything out in illustrator.

I rastered the area around the circle about 25 times at a custom setting (Speed 50%, Power 100%). That made a nice groove where I could then screen in the AUX jack.

Levante 2.0 – Handcrafted Wood & Acrylic Laptop Stands


I wanted to see If I could take the previous laptop stands I created to the next level in terms of consistency and aesthetic. I wanted to create something sleek, useful and ergonomic.


Initial Sketches


The Strategy

I wanted to combine two pieces of 1/4″ plywood, 1/4″ acrylic and 1/16th” acrylic for each of the two parts of the stand as that was the maximum thickness the laser cut would be able to cut. I would then bond them together.


Special Thanks

This wouldn’t be possible without the help from some of the most amazing creators at ITP!


Getting Started


  • 1 Sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1/4″ of blue acrylic
  • 1/16″ of white acrylic
  • Pencil
  • Eraser
  • Sharpie
  • Black Spray Paint
  • Masking Tape
  • Gorilla Glue or Bonding Cement
  • Several pieces of cardboard


  • Exacto knife
  • Adobe Illustrator
  • Laser Printer
  • Large, Medium and Small clamps


The Process

I first started to prototype with card board to help verify that I got the sizing correct.

After I verified that it was fitting my laptop, I laser cut into the acrylic. It took about 8 rounds of cutting but it finally cut through.

Then I began laser cutting the wood.

This is the design file I used. I organized everything into layers so I could etch and then cut in order to keep everything consistent.

After it was all cut, I applied Sharpie followed by dry erase marker and then wiped it off to really make the etch stand out with the brand name.

Now the bonding begins!

You can never have too many clamps!


This is where things went way wrong. I decided to paint both parts after I sanded them down a bit to make the wood parts even. I thought masking would work..


Final Product Shots



  1. I should have painted the body before putting the white plate on. (thanks Dani for helping me scrub off the pain with nail polish remover!)
  2. I need to make the blue standout more but moving that sheet to be right after the white plate. it’s hidden and you can’t see the color that well
  3. Use less parts. Will use the CNC to get out 1/2″ wood blocks as having 4 sliding pieces during the cementing process was tricky. I want to make these more consistent.

I might experiment without painting and possible applying a nice finish to wood.

ICM Final


I will develop a way for users to:

1) Automatically get their weather data based on their location

2) Recommend several clothing articles based on their weather

3) Provide a link for the user to then purchase said articles of clothing

The critical point for me here will not only be the calling of information, but the organization of how the information is presented to the user.

Levante – Handcrafted Wood Laptop Stands


I had a few products as inspiration here, including the mStand, stood and a few others. I really wanted to use the concept and create my own “style”, slightly edgier, but it was difficult to make the design consistent with these “more curvy” approaches so I had to go with a more ‘traditional’ approach.


Initial Sketches 

Getting Started


  • Sheet of 3/4″ thick birch plywood (42″ x 12″)
  • 3/4″ foam
  • Pencil
  • Eraser
  • Sharpie


  • Miter Saw
  • Exacto knife
  • T-Square
  • Compass
  • Drill press
  • Hole Saw bit (1.25″)
  • Open Stand Disc Sanding Machine
  • Band Saw
  • Sanding block
  • Large, Medium and Small clamps


The Process

Cardboard Prototyping

I took some foam and cut out very rough examples of what I wanted to build. the purpose of this was to determine the best angle to display the laptop screen through refining these rough ‘samples’. I began cutting out rectangular blocks 12″ x 3″ and sketched a sample image of the stand onto them with a sharpie.

I carved the designs out with an exacto knife, which came out extremely rough. I should have used a jigsaw. From this points, I chipped away at the foam until I got to a point where I was happy with the angle of the computer based on my torso (I’m slightly taller than average at 5′ 8.5″).



Wood Supply

I went over to Metropolitan Lumber on Spring St. and they hooked me up with 3/4″ birch plywood.


Building the Stencil

Before I could touch the wood I had just got, I had to build a stencil first so I could then trace onto the actual wood. I used a compass to help create the big curve in the back of the stand. The thinking here was to replicate Carlie’s approach and drill a hole, then use the miter saw to tangentially intersect the circle with two straight lines, one being for the top of the stand and the other for the bottom of the stand.


I then sanded the stencil down to a dimension I was happy with. The round curve at the back proved to be difficult with the miter saw cutting through some of it, which you can see not only in the stencil, but in the actual production pieces as well.


Creating The Others in Bulk

Now that I had a stencil, I could pretty much fly through and create 5 more sets of of these, right? Wrong. I had to rethink my approach at each stage.

I began with a piece of wood that was 42″ x 12″ and creating 12 3″ rectangles that spanned the width of the board (I accounted of one of the inevitable ‘first pancakes’ was was yet to occur).

I then carefully traced the stencil within each block (foreshadowing to a future problem).


I then used the miter saw to cut these into their own pieces.


I then used a compass to create the circles in roughly the same place for each piece and then cut the circles out.


I then used a miter saw to create the straight lines. This is where I lost of the the pairs.


With these rough cuts made, I then used the band saw to make the smaller, more “curvy” cuts.


Now I had to sand. As you can see the actual stencil is much larger than the raw stands.


This is when I made my major mistake with the production run. I thought I could clamp all of the pieces together (along with the sample) and just sand everything until it was all even with the stencil. What I didn’t account for was what I mentioned before when I traced the stencil on each rectangle. I didn’t do it in the same location on each rectangle. When I then tried to even it out using the stencil as a guide, they became even more uneven as you can see below where I sanded past the traced line on some of them.


I then paired them together with another stand that was roughly the same dimensions, clamped them together and sanded them together so at least each pair would be even.

Final Shots

I wanted to attach a brand name to this item, and ‘Levante’ seems appropriate.


What could I have done better? Well a lot. I could have done a more jagged design to cover up any mistakes by the saw. I should have drawn each outline of the stand in the exact same place on each rectangle, which would have made sanding significantly easier. I wish I used a better wood and not plywood, as it cracks and doesn’t look nice after attempting to sand it down. This is something that would look amazing if I was able to use the CNC machine, as it would have been much more precise with less mistakes overall.

The Hex Light


I was inspired by this project that used hex nuts to create a small, pocket-sized flashlight. I loved how raw and industrial it looked, but it was missing something. I wanted to create something that was larger and looked more finished, with a better mechanism to turn on and off the light.


Link to original project

Special Thanks

  • Ben Light
  • Michael Simpson
  • Simon
  • Sebastian Morales



Initial Sketches

Getting Started

Below is the list of materials I used for this project.


  • 8 5/8″ hex nuts
  • 2 3/4″ hex nuts
  • 1 5/8″ hex nuts
  • 1 5/8″ bolt
  • 5 ultra bright LEDs
  • 2 AAA batteries
  • Electrical tape
  • 1 small sheet of 3mm acrylic (white)
  • 1 small sheet of 3mm acrylic (clear)
  • Copper Tape
  • Solder wire
  • Red and Black wire
  • PLA plastic 3D printer reel
  • Small tacile button
  • Hot glue gun
  • Epoxy (Metal on Metal)
  • Sharpie/Pen


  • Hack saw (for metal)
  • Soldering iron
  • Sanding machine
  • Sanding block
  • Large clamp
  • 3D Printing Machine
  • Long, round file
  • Laser Printer


The Process

I first needed to figure out how to make the batteries fit into the 5/8″ hex nuts. The holders I originally was using were made from plastic and I used the sanding machine to sand them down. I also filed the insides of all the 5/8″ hex nuts to increase the space within the nuts.


While sanding the plastic battery holders down, I was having some difficultly attaching two of them together so that they would be able to be removed as an entire unit. After several discussions, I landed on 3D printing to print a full 2 battery holder. I then sanded that down until it was able to fit within the hex nuts. I found the file to the battery holder on Thingiverse and then printed it out.


For sanity checking, I made sure I was able to still complete the circuit when the batteries were in. Sucsess!


I then cut three pieces from the acrylic: one to hold the LEDs, one with holes just big enough to the lights to poke through and a clear lens cover to provide protection to the unit.


Large circle with holes: .565″ with .130″ holes (same size for the clear circle, without the holes)

Smaller: .5 with .130″ holes

I cut the smaller circle so that it would fit through the entire module when I pulled out the internal battery unit. The larger circle I hot glued into one of the 5/8″ hex nuts. It fit perfectly in there.


I originally was using steel ends for the batteries but switched to copper tape as it was much much easier to handle and solder to.


I then cut the LED legs and soldered red and black wires to the anodes and cathodes, respectively.


After I finished soldering all the wires to the 5 LEDs, I used electrical tape to cover up any open connections.


I then grouped all the positive and negative leads together, soldered then and game then each one common lead to then connect to the circuit.


I then sawed off the part of the bolt I didn’t need, which was about 5 of the 6 inches.



I then wrapped the rests of the open connections in electrical tape after I soldered them to the battery holder and completed the circuit.


After verifying that the connection and light was working, i began to apply the epoxy to the hex nuts and applying pressure to provide a solid contact point for adhesion.

Finishing Touches

I then took a fine-grain sander and brushed across the body of the flashlight to produce “brushed” effect on the metal.

 Finished Product


I thought the project went pretty smooth after figuring out how to implement a switch interally with the bolt. I made several mistakes throughout that I hope to avoid in the future. For one,, make sure that all your wires are properly soldered, because if they are weak, they will break off, which required me to go back, un tapes them, cut the the old wire and reapply the solder to a new wire. I sent through this 3 or 4 times at one point.

Also, make sure the internals of the hex nuts are filed before applying the epoxy. I forgot to file the last one as that was connected to my bolt and had to file that after the epoxy had dried.

3D printing was a fantastic tool that helped bring the internals to life. If I knew how to modify the file within a program, it would have saved me a bit of time from sanding the original piece down to what I needed.

Copper tape was also a great addition, to connect the batteries. Steel does not solder well.

One thing that ended being a real pain was aligning the LEDs to the holes in the end. That was not successful. I should have not placed the cover on the light and shpuld have put the battery inside the light while it dried. I should have also put a string to help pull out the battery/light fixture as it is now stuck in there….forever.